Within the introductory post to this mini-series, I instructed that we shift views and broaden our exploration of wine this vacation season into neighborhoods, avenues and facet streets that we aren’t used to. Since shoppers will not be “shoppers as regular” this yr, then wine will not be enterprise as regular both. If there was ever a time for a brand new tack, then 2021 might very nicely be it.
The concept, at one degree, of shifting views is to contemplate wines that mirror the rising industrial curiosity in accountable manufacturing and consumption, particularly the social and environmental affect of wine and in addition conscious consumption. That was the main focus of the primary put up on this collection.
The second concept, that’s the focus of right now’s posts, is to transition from industrial “curiosity” to the bodily and actually embodied “expertise” of wine as a customer and vacationer. This time it’s about re-orienting our consideration from the wine-roads-well-traveled to the people who, if not precisely newly constructed, are far much less often navigated.
That’s the thought of shifting perspective. Recent vistas. Unknown surroundings. And, if we’re fortunate, unknown grapes as nicely, plus wines we hadn’t tried earlier than, and new acquaintances that broaden our enjoyment of the panorama of wine.
New Neighborhood of Wine, Half One: San Benito County
I’ve organized this content material in two “new neighborhoods” of wine but it surely’s vital to determine the premise that “new” is relative. California’s San Benito County, and the tiny Cienega Valley AVA that it accommodates, are a location of historic significance by way of vineyards, Spanish Missions and heritage clones.
The Cienega Valley AVA, or American Viticultural Space, is anchored by Eden Rift vineyard; the AVA was established formally in 1982 and the land on which Eden Rift sits has been beneath vine since 1849. The AVA, which is a part of the better Central Coast AVA, can also be positioned alongside the San Andreas Fault, which is a truth of geography whose viticultural affect can’t be underestimated.
By way of time and experimentation, chardonnay and pinot noir have been recognized and cultivated as signature varietals of Eden Rift’s explicit terroir, although I’m personally drawn to the vineyard’s expressions of pinot gris and to the historic significance of its own-rooted, head-trained zinfandel, planted in 1906. That historical past is tied, and for me enhanced, by the structure of the positioning, particularly by the Dickinson Home which is dated to the identical yr and embodies the Prairie Faculty model of Frank Lloyd Wright. As an area for tasting wine, it’s grounded, intimate and natural, which led to an expertise that was historic, distinctive and of-the-place; for me there was a way of being-here-now, tasting-here-wines.
“How have I by no means been right here earlier than?”
That’s an affordable query to ask as a first-time, wine-loving customer to this nook of San Benito County, particularly one with some expertise of assorted areas of California wine nation. Enter “Hollister” into your GPS, which is for many guests probably the most acknowledged city title and native level of orientation, and also you’ll see that it’s about 100 miles south of San Francisco, and simply 60 miles south of the San Jose airport in Silicon Valley.
In different phrases, it’s an excellent shut, simply accessible wine-road-less-traveled.
Due homage is paid to the chardonnay and pinot noir which are the hallmark of the area and its limestone-rich soils, most notably at Calera close to Mt. Harlan, nearly 40 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. (“Calera” itself means lime kiln within the Spanish language.) The homage is warranted, to Calera’s single-vineyard pinot noir specifically, and I used to be additionally glad to style the playful expressions of chenin blanc, aligoté and viognier from their white wine portfolio.
From a customer’s perspective, the prevailing sense was one in all exhale. It’s shut sufficient to California wine nation with out the pretense of California Wine Nation. The historical past of the positioning and the standard of the wines buoy the expertise with out an overblown have an effect on. The area balances the rigor and confidence of high quality winemaking with a relaxed, comfy presentation to company.
